Our travel guide to Edinburgh - see what the city has to offer

Edinburgh Festival starts this week, and there’s loads going on, but don’t spend too much time inside theatres. Explore what else the city has to offer

4 August 2009

Climb up to Arthur’s Seat

THIS hill peak is only 15 minutes from the centre of town, but climbing Arthur’s Seat feels like being in the Highlands. You’ll remember where you are when you get to the top and have stupendous views over Edinburgh. You can do it in about half an hour, or there’s a route that will take two hours, taking in lochs, hills and a ruined church. You can stop on your way round for ale at Scotland’s oldest pub, The Sheep Heid Inn in Duddingston, if that helps convince you.

Arthur’s Seat, Holyrood Park Road (Entrance by Holyrood Palace at the end of the Royal Mile)

Have a fish supper

London is known for a lot of things. Good chippies ain’t one of them. The standard is much higher in the Scottish capital and so any one you stumble across will probably be good. We love Cafe Piccante, known as “the chippy that thinks it’s a club”, where fried delights are served up while DJs man decks. Specialities include fried haggis and the fried Mars bar. Or, if you have time, grab some battered cod or a white pudding (delicious oatmeal dish) and chips from Carlos in Portobello.

Cafe Piccante, 19 Broughton Street, 0131 478 7884, www.cafepiccante.com.

Carlos, 227 Portobello High Street, 0131 669 3010

Stroll around the Royal Botanic Garden

A mile north of the city centre, the gardens are open until 7pm in August and entry is free. There are 78 acres of stunning scenery and you don’t have to be a budding botanist to appreciate them. Check out the rock garden.

Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh, 20A Inverleith Row, 0131 552 7171, www.rbge.org.uk

Go drinking in George Street

It’s safe to say you’ll have nae bother finding drinking establishments in Edinburgh, but the place to head for is George Street. Packed with bars, you could start with beer at The Dome, a bank-turned-bar with chandeliers and stained-glass windows, before moving on to the Candy Bar, all leather booths and egg cup-shaped swivel chairs. Then party into the wee small hours at lavish Lulu.

The Dome, 14 George St, 0131 624 8624, www.thedomeedinburgh.com.

Candy Bar, 113–115 George Street, 0131 225 9179, www.candybaredinburgh.co.uk.

Lulu, Under Tigerlily, 125b George Street, 0131 225 5075, www.luluedinburgh.co.uk

People-watch in Pleasance Courtyard

A great spot for people-watching, the Pleasance Courtyard, set in an Edinburgh University building, turns into the biggest beer garden in the city during the ­festival. Everyone hangs out there at some point in August, from performers to festival staff and fans.

Pleasance Courtyard, 60 Pleasance, 0131 556 1513. Open all day 5-31 August

Dine at a great local restaurant

Rather than grab snacks from food stalls, make at least one reservation at one of Edinburgh's fine restaurants. The Witchery is a treat – serving Scottish food in a gothic 16th-century building at the castle gates. Dishes can be pricey, but its three courses for £30 deal is good value and you can get the likes of quail and wild mushroom bridie with buttered black cabbage, followed by roast Atlantic cod with fennel marmalade and pommes dauphine, and then steamed fruit pudding with rum custard for dessert. Another good shout is ­Sweet Melindas restaurant, which serves up fresh fish sourced from Eddie’s ­Seafood Market next door.

The Witchery by the Castle, Castlehill, The Royal Mile, 0131 225 5613, www.thewitchery.com.

Sweet Melindas, 11 Roseneath Street, Marchmont, 0131 229 7953, www.sweetmelindas.co.uk

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Check out the Water of Leith

A walk along the picturesque tree-lined River Leith allows you to take in the Union Canal, Saughton Winter Gardens, Murrayfield and the Scottish National Gallery of Modern Art. A perfect cycle route if you fancy hiring a bike – you can get one from £7 (half a day). Well worth a ride, surely.

Leith Cycle Co, 276 Leith Walk, 0131 467 7775, www.leithcycleco.com. www.waterofleith.org.uk

Want to go?

Edinburgh Festival is a collective term for several festivals going on in August such as the International Festival, Fringe Festival, Military Tattoo and the less famous Festival of Politics. The city is packed, but it’s not too late to decide on a last-minute trip.

Tickets for the Military Tattoo are sold out but you can often pick up resales if you call the hotline regularly on 0131 225 1188.

More information on the individual festivals can be found at www.edinburghfestivals.co.uk

Sort it

GET THERE: easyJet seats start at £24.99. www.easyjet.com, Virgin Trains has seats from £108.80 return. www.virgintrains.co.uk

ACCOMMODATION: Visit Scotland has an allocation of rooms. 0845 225 5121, visitscotland.com

MINTED: Hotel Missoni is decked out by famous knitwear company founder Rosita Missoni. Doubles from £250. www.hotelmissoni.com

SKINTED: Rooms at the university and the further-away Heriot-Watt campus start at £59. www.edinburghfirst.com, 0131 451 3669

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