The Compass, Penton Street, Islington - gastropub review
The pub formerly known as The Salmon and Compass gets a gastropub redo. Its breezy atmosphere could be a winner - it's just a shame about the food and drink
15 July 2009
Hard to believe the gastropub isn’t as British as pie’n’mash, yet pre-1991 – when Farringdon stalwart The Eagle opened – this ponced-up breed of boozer didn’t exist.
Yet here we are with another: the former Salmon & Compass, rebranded as The Compass. It enters the fray with a relaxed attitude: its open kitchen clattered, a blues soundtrack twanged and our waiter filled empty moments with bursts of dancing.
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This breezy atmosphere could be a winner, except the decor and food cann’t live up to the ambiance. With just a slap of cream paint and some gold pillars, this ordinary-looking corner pub still feels like it’s waiting for renovation.
The food at least shows a commitment to British produce. A main of pigeon in pan juices was fine and gamey, but came with dried-out broad beans. A starter of English snails swam forlornly in a pool of garlic and parsley sauce, while a chocolate brownie was sugared into oblivion. And my friend’s so-so rare-breed sirloin, ordered rare to medium, came faintly pink, with leaden chips.
Prices, admittedly, are reasonable – but they should be.
58 Penton Street, N1, 020 7837 3891, Tube: Angel, Meal for two: £70
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