The Elgin, 96 Ladbroke Grove, W11 - pub review
Occupying an imposing corner on Ladbroke Grove, with lots of space and passing traffic, in its former incarnation the Elgin was gloomy. Refurbishment has done wonders
9 September 2009
So devalued has the term “gastropub” become that the Elgin, reopened under new ownership, has opted to describe itself as a “freehouse and food pub”. It fits this friendly, snack-orientated venue very well.
Occupying an imposing corner on Ladbroke Grove, with lots of space and passing traffic, in its former incarnation the Elgin was gloomy. Refurbishment has done wonders.
The ground floor is divided into three: a central pub with stain-glass windows serving Wandle real ale; a darker, intimate bar, styled like an old fashioned gin palace and serving
20-odd varieties of the spirit; and an eating area made to look like the dining room of a quirky house. This is the best bit, with bright wallpaper, giant chests of drawers serving as screens between tables, and surfaces with ceramic horses and colourful crates of plants.
Food is good and not too dear (thick ham with giant duck eggs – £9; chunky homemade cheese burgers – £10.50), but you might want to opt for one of the fist-sized pies or Scotch eggs, displayed under a glass dish cover on the bar counter, while you muse on one of the array of free newspapers.
“Freehouse and food pub”? Add “first rate”.
The Elgin, 96 Ladbroke Grove, W11, 020 7229 5663 Pint of ale: £3.10
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